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Ecotourism in the Cinque Terre

Harvesting Grapes in Vernazza

Harvesting Grapes in Vernazza

Earth day is tomorrow, so I thought I’d profile a couple of places in Italy where sustainable tourism initiatives are taking root.

First off is the Cinque Terre, already a favorite destination for travelers to Italy. Protect Cinque Terre operates out of Vernazza, one of the five “terre” (lands) and offers participants the opportunity to work with locals in landscape preservation such as “rebuilding the stone walls that support terraced agriculture, cleaning trails used by thousand of tourists every month, and harvesting some of the agricultural bounty grown on the hillsides around the town.”

For sure, this is a challenging working holiday. But it can also be fulfilling. Danielle Machotka, who volunteered for the program and wrote about it for Transitions Abroad, had this to say:

Over the course of the three days, we learned about the impact that tourism has on a small town like Vernazza. The population of 800 doubles on a typical summer day. Some tourists stay for a couple of hours, buy gelato and postcards, and t-shirts, and leave for the next town. Some stay for a night or two. Some return every year.

All create waste. Sanitary sewer lines and water treatment plants are at capacity. Nature-loving hikers increase the potential for erosion with every footstep. None of this is immediately fatal to the well-being of Vernazza, but it is eating away at the town’s surroundings and resources. Tourism and agriculture are the primary industries; neither creates great financial surpluses. Alessandro and Olga hope that the working holiday program will be the first step towards solving the problem by raising awareness.

Protect Cinque Terre has three programs in 2009, including a Wine Harvest Program in September. The price for three days/four nights, including lodging, all meals, guided tours, entrance fees, transportation during scheduled excursions, and tools required during the program is €445 per person.

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Culture Week 2009

Today begins Culture Week throughout all of Italy. Through April 26,  state-run museums will be open for free and many will be extending hours. Tons of special events and exhibitions are part of Culture Week. To see what’s on, visit the Italian Culture Ministry’s website.

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The Real Pinocchio

Pinocchio marionettes in Florence. Photo by Carl Ottersen on Flickr.com.

Pinocchio marionettes in Florence. Photo by Carl Ottersen on Flickr.com.

Last November, the New York Review of Books released Carlo Collodi’s The Adventures of Pinocchio under its NYRB Classics imprint. The tale, as reviewed by Tim Parks in the latest issue, is much darker than the Disneyfied version. After the jump is Parks’ full review. As always, I urge you to subscribe to NYRB; they often review books on Italy and even have an Italian version, La Rivista dei Libri.

By the way, if you’re visiting Tuscany with kids, you may be interested in venturing to the Parco di Pinocchio in the author’s hometown of Collodi (Carlo Lorenzini adopted the town’s name for his nom de plume).

Knock on Wood
By Tim Parks
The Adventures of Pinocchio
by Carlo Collodi, translated from the Italian by Geoffrey Brock, with an introduction by Umberto Eco and an afterword by Rebecca West

New York Review Books, 189 pp., $14.00 (paper)

A voice yells from within a pine log, “Don’t hit me too hard!” The carpenter is astonished, his axe stayed. When they come unexpected, life and language are unsettling.

Brought into being by blows, the talking log proceeds to start a fight: the carpenter’s friend Geppetto has arrived to ask for a piece of wood and the voice mocks his yellow wig; Geppetto imagines he is being insulted by his friend and in a moment the two are on the floor, scratching, biting, and thumping. Consigned to Geppetto, the lively log contrives to bang his shins and provoke a second misunderstanding and a second fight before it is taken away.

Old Geppetto is something of an artist. His house is bare, but he has painted bright flames in the fireplace and a merrily boiling pot above them; when reality is hard, illusion may offer consolation. Now Geppetto is about to embark on a much greater act of creation: he will fashion a traveling companion who can “dance and fence, and do flips,” so that together the two can earn a “crust of bread” and a “cup of wine.” He’s thinking of company and economic advantage. But no sooner has Pinocchio been carved from his living log than he is snatching off Geppetto’s wig, revealing the reality of his maker’s baldness. Taught to walk, he runs off. When Geppetto catches up and starts to give the puppet a fierce shaking, he is arrested for assault and jailed. The artist has lost control of his creation. Raw vitality with no inhibitions, Pinocchio is freed into a world of hot tempers, vanity, ignorance, and appetite; a violent tussle is never far off.

Continue reading…

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Ramble On: Tuscany Walking Festival

Tuscany, with its beautiful vistas and thousands of hectares of nature preserves and woodlands, offers numerous opportunities for serious hikers and casual trekkers alike. This is the also the thought of the organizers of the Tuscany Walking Festival, going on through June 28th and again from October 2-25.

The festival highlights six of the great hiking areas in Tuscany, including the Maremma, the Monti Livornesi and the Tuscan Archipelago. In addition to the great walks are other events and promotions, such as photography exhibits, birdwatching courses, and restaurant discounts near the walking regions. What a great way to learn about Tuscany’s natural treasures and take a break from art overload!

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Tuscan Castle Vacation from $799

Montegufoni Castle

Montegufoni Castle

Here’s a deal that came across our desk today. It is a six-night stay in Montegufoni Castle with rountrip airfare and rental car for $799 for quad occupancy. The catch? You must book by April 17. The details after the jump… Continue reading…

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L’Aquila Earthquake Info

The full extent of the damage to L’Aquila and the surrounding area after yesterday’s 6.3 earthquake is still not known. As of now, there are at least 179 confirmed dead and numerous buildings, including the Church of Maria di Collemaggio, lie in rubble.

Even though this is still a developing story, a lot of interesting info is available on the web, including ways you can help. Jessica over at Italylogue put together a comprehensive list of news links, Facebook groups, and how and where you can donate blood in Italy. Jessica and several other Italy bloggers also posted info for the NIAF/Abruzzo Relief Fund.

If you want to see some more first-hand accounts and maps of the quake damage, check out Google Maps Mania: Earthquake Hits L’Aquila. You can also head over to Flickr and search for terremoto, earthquake, L’Aquila, or a combination of those words or others to find photos of the devastation.

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What’s On In Italy: April 2009

We missed March’s event round-up and we’re late for this month’s. So here we go…

Easter: Last month, we posted the Vatican’s Holy Week Calendar. The website whatsonwhen.com lists two of Italy’s most famous Easter celebrations: Florence’s Scoppio del Carro and Madonna che Scappa in Piazza (Madonna who runs in the square) in Sulmona (Abruzzo). Taranto, in Puglia, is also known for its hours-long Holy Week processions, a tradition from the days when Puglia was a Spanish territory.

Spring! A profusion of flowers and outdoor events usher in spring in Italy. Milan puts on the annual Fiori e Sapori gardening show and food fair on April 5. If you’re in Rome this month, you can expect to see the Spanish Steps abloom with flowers of pink, red, and white.

Food and Wine. In addition to the Fiori e Sapori fest in Milan (see above), there are a number of food festivals this month. From April 17-20, Genoa will  host Slow Fish, a tribute by local restaurants to fish and seafood done the traditional (slow) way. There will be wine festivals in Rome (April 25-26) and Porto Cervo in Sardinia (24-26) and, through April 6, Verona will host VinItaly, which brings together wine producers from all over the country.

Sport: In Rome, there’ll be the derby between Lazio and Roma (April 19). On the same day in Venice will be the Su e Zo per i Ponti, a sort of walkathon “up and down” the canal city’s bridges.

April also sees the celebration of Liberation Day (25) and the birth of Rome, which, on April 21, will be too old for me to calculate!

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Travel Partner Wanted for Calabria

Cherrye, an Italy blogger colleague in Calabria, posted the following information about Jennifer Rafferty, who is looking for a (preferably female) travel partner to accompany her as she searches for her family’s roots in the Catanzaro province of Calabria. You’ll have to pay your own way, of course. But what a nice story this is…

WANTED: Fun-loving, Free-Spirited Travel Partner to Tackle Calabria | My Bella Vita.

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Comprehensive Guide to Cooking Schools in Italy

Staying on the subject of food today, here is a wonderfully comprehensive guide to cooking schools throughout Italy (not just Tuscany) for anyone thinking of taking a culinary vacation. Thanks for all your research, Jessica!

Cooking Schools in Italy | Italy Travel Guide.

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Rome’s Best Trattoria? You decide…

Choice Tables - A Debate Over the Best Roman Trattoria -NYTimes.com

How could I possibly let this headline from the New York Times pass me by? Apparently, the global recession has led Italians to rediscover their local trattoria. And where better than Rome to start the debate?

The problem with trattorie is that there are so many, so I hardly remember the name of my favorites. I do recall loving one local in the San Giovanni area around the corner from my flat. The best part is that my 7 year old charge (I was an au pair at the time) ordered a mezzo porzione of the spaghetti con vongole (yep..Italian kids eat clams!). I can’t remember what I ate (amatriciana, maybe?), but I do remember finding it charming that the trattoria was so accommodating to the little girl. Can’t find too many places like that anymore.

So, what’s your favorite tratt in Rome? Or, do you have a favorite in another city? I’m sure you do, so comment away!

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