• Don’t Stress About a Long Layover in Rome. Go Here.

    Don’t Stress About a Long Layover in Rome. Go Here.

    A long layover is not as common in Rome as it is in other airport hubs like Paris or London. But layovers and cancellations do happen.

    So, if you’re stuck at FCO—Rome’s Fiumicino Airport—here’s the best thing you can do—head to the spa!

    The Best Spa Near FCO Airport

    The QC Termeroma Spa & Resort is an oasis of calm only seven minutes by taxi from the airport. 7 minutes! There’s also a shuttle service from the airport, which requires pre-booking and a small fee.

    QC Termeroma is a full-service day spa that feels like a cross between a modern spa facility and ancient Roman baths. Located on a historic estate “where the ancient imperial tradition of salus per aquam meets modern wellness technology,” QC Terme has a wide variety of pools and fountains where you can relax, heal, and center yourself before dealing with the indignities of airport travel.

    The spa’s wellness path features a vineyard, a rose garden trail, an infinity pool, “musical” baths, thinking rooms, saunas, heated whirlpools, and a hard-pulsing, double-nozzled emotional shower that massages you as it cleanses. There are indoor and outdoor lounge areas with beds and comfy chairs where you can rest or have a light snack.

    What to Bring

    You don’t need to bring much with you to the spa, just a bathing suit. QC provides you with a robe, towel, and slippers when you check in. They will also give you a key or code to a locker where you can place your clothes and handbag. The showers have shampoo, conditioner, and body wash, and there are also hair dryers should you need one.

    Fees

    Day spa fees at QC Termeroma range from €44-89. You can also book a massage, facial, or other body treatment for an additional fee. You can book a day stay at the QC wellness spa here. Directions from FCO to the spa are here.

    Hotel Option & Other Locations

    In addition to being a day spa and wellness center, QC Termeroma is a 5-star hotel. So, if you are going to be in Rome for an extended period of time, you may want to book one of the relaxing and romantic country chic rooms at the QC Termeroma estate.

    By the way, QC is a brand. You will also find their spas in other locations in Italy, such as in the city center of Milan and in the Dolomites.

    In Conclusion

    “Why not spend a long layover in Rome…in Rome?” you ask? I’ll tell you why.

    If you return to Rome you will lose track of all time. It’ll be hard to say goodbye, yet again.

    Think of time in the spa on the outskirts of town near the airport as a sort of meditation. It’s precious purgatory—a buffer—between Rome and the reality of back home. A mind cleanse.

  • History of the Crucifixion

    History of the Crucifixion

    Crucifixion was designed to be the most torturous and humiliating of punishments. While this terrible act is best known as the central, enduring symbol of Christianity, it was utilized throughout the Roman Empire to execute slaves and insurrectionists.

    If you’ve ever wanted to know more about the history and logistics of crucifixion, here is a fascinating podcast to listen to on Easter or during Holy Week or Lent.

    The Rest is History is an essential podcast for history buffs. In the 175th episode of the program, historians Tom Holland and Dominic Sandbrook explore the history of crucifixion, from its origins to its significance as a form of capital punishment during antiquity.

    The first half of the podcast concentrates on crucifixion as punishment, the types of criminals who would be subjected to it and when and why it was used. Tom Holland is graphic in his descriptions of the manner in which men were crucified. He also discusses other known crucifixions in history, including that of Spartacus and other slaves who were famously crucified along the length of the Appian Way.

    The second half of the episode looks at the most famous historical crucifixion, that of Jesus of Nazareth, and how the biblical description of Christ’s crucifixion matches up with texts about the horrific practice during Ancient Roman times. Holland even gets into how crucifixion still exists in the modern world, most recently used by the Islamic State.

    Listen:

  • Bergamo and Brescia ‘Shine’ as Dual Capitals of Italian Culture

    Bergamo and Brescia ‘Shine’ as Dual Capitals of Italian Culture

    Bergamo and Brescia will be the joint Italian Capital of Culture for 2023.

    In May 2020, during the first terrible wave of the long coronavirus pandemic, the two hard-hit Lombard cities united to submit their candidacy for the Capitale Italiana della Cultura. The Italian Culture Ministry awarded the distinction to the Bergamo and Brescia just two months later—a sign of hope and renewal.

    Bergamo-Brescia 2023: La Città Illuminata

    On March 2, 2022, Bergamo-Brescia presented its theme for 2023: La Città Illuminata (The City Illuminated). Within this theme, the cities will focus on four areas: the city and nature, the city of hidden treasures, the city that invents, and culture as a cure.

    Bergamo-Brescia 2023 logo. Don’t you just love the stylized “3” which looks like a B? Very clever. | Source

    Speaking at the presentation in Milan, Italian Culture Minister Dario Franceschini said:

    “Giving these cities the nomination as Capital of Culture was not just a gesture of solidarity after the tragedy of the pandemic, but the certainty of finding an idea of ??[a] restart. And today more than ever investing in culture offers hope. This illuminated city will be the light after the night.”

    The complete PDF dossier for the 2023 Bergamo-Brescia project is available (in Italian) here.

    Cities of Culture—and a New Bike Path

    Located east of Milan approximately 40 minutes to one hour by train, Brescia and Bergamo are two underrated cities with a lot to offer.

    Some cultural and natural highlights include the Parco dei Colli di Bergamo and the Plis delle Colline di Brescia, the wines of Franciacorta and the Val Calepio, castles and cathedrals, and the shores of Lake Iseo. In addition to these, the area boasts the beautiful monastic complex of San Salvatore–Santa Giulia (a UNESCO site); paintings by Raphael (in both cities); and the birthplace of Michelangelo Merisi, aka Caravaggio.

    Bergamo and Brescia have also announced the Ciclovia della Cultura (PDF, in Italian), a 75km bike route that will connect the two cities.

    Per Brescia Today:

    The bike route starts from Bergamo, “the upper town and the urban landscape of the plain”, and then continues towards the airport of Caravaggio and Seriate, along the river Serio; the “line” continues between Brusaporto, Costa di Mezzate and Montello, or rather the foothills landscape of the Bergamo vineyards and castles.

    Then it continues towards Montello, Gorlago, Carobbio degli Angeli and Chiuduno, Grumello del Monte and Castelli Calepio, close to two valleys (the Val Calepio and the Oglio valley): it is here that it finally crosses and you arrive on Lake Iseo touching Sarnico and Paratico, passing the peat bogs and then continuing towards Franciacorta, from Provaglio d’Iseo to Borgonato di Corte Franca, and again Bornato, Passirano, Paderno Franciacorta and Rodengo Saiano (and the vineyards, and the castles). Finally, we approach the city and its hinterland: forward towards Gussago and Cellatica, among vineyards, hills and abbeys, and then you are in Brescia’s historic center.

    More Italian Capitals of Culture

    I am writing about the Bergamo-Brescia 2023 partnership on the day that the Italian Culture Ministry announced that Pesaro, in the Marches, would be the Italian Capital of Culture 2024.

    This was the first in-person announcement of an Italian Capital of Culture since 2019, the year of Matera. The city of Parma served as Capitale Italiana della Cultura for 2020 and 2021 because of the pandemic. The Italian Capital of Culture for 2022 is Procida.

    I’ll write more on Pesaro 2024 as details are released. In the meantime, here is Pesaro’s candidacy video:

  • Stay in Style: The Trendiest New Hotels in Rome

    Stay in Style: The Trendiest New Hotels in Rome

    After a few years of uncertainty caused by the pandemic, Rome’s hotel sector has rebounded quite nicely with new openings and development announcements.

    Here are a few of the newest hotels in the Eternal City.

    Cosmopolita Hotel Rome

    Photo courtesy Cosmopolita Hotel Rome

    Location: Off Piazza Venezia

    Hilton’s 4-star Cosmopolita (no “n”) is the first Tapestry Collection hotel in Rome.

    The 76-room boutique hotel is mere steps away from ancient sites (Trajan’s Markets) and shopping on Via del Corso. Hilton has a growing portfolio of hotels in Rome, including the Doubletree Monti which opened in 2021. In November, Hilton will open Hilton Rome Eur La Lama, which will have direct access to the EUR convention center La Nuvola.

    Book Cosmopolita Hotel

    Nobu Hotel Roma

    Photo courtesy Nobu Hotel Roma

    Location: Via Veneto

    Nobu Hotel Roma houses 122 guest rooms and suites, including a 500sqm Nobu Suite. It also features a Nobu Restaurant offering 24-hour in-room dining plus a green-rooftop terrace, indoor and outdoor meeting space, a full-service city spa, a fitness center, and a music club lounge.

    Visit Nobu Hotel Roma

    Six Senses Rome

    Photo courtesy Six Senses Rome

    Location: Via del Corso

    Located on Piazza di San Marcello, overlooking Via del Corso and steps away from designer shopping on Via Condotti, Six Senses houses 95 unique rooms and suites. Highlights include the Six Senses Spa, on the ground floor, and a rooftop terrace with 360° panoramic views of the surrounding city and monuments. Six Senses joins four more IHG hotels in Rome and participates in the IHG Rewards program.

    View Six Senses Rome

    InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace

    Photo courtesy InterContinental Rome

    Location: Via Veneto

    The famous Ambasciatori Palace hotel on the Via Veneto, which has hosted ambassadors, celebrities, and literary stars, re-opened in 2023 as the InterContinental Rome. Featuring 160 rooms and suites, the 5-star hotel is now the capital jewel among IHG’s more than two dozen hotels in Italy and participates in the IHG Rewards program.

    Visit Intercontinental Rome

    Bvlgari Hotel Roma

    Courtesy Bvlgari Hotel Roma

    Location: Campo Marzio, Piazza Augusto Imperatore

    The Roman jewelry brand Bulgari—Bvlgari, if spelled the ancient Roman way—opens its anticipated hotel in 2023 in an amazing (though Fascist-era) building in the upscale Campo Marzio district. It will feature 114 suites, a spa, pool, gym, and a library dedicated to the history of jewelry.

    The signature Bulgari Suite will look out over the newly restored Mausoleum of Emperor Augustus. For drinks and dining, there will be the Bulgari Bar and Il Ristorante – Niko Romito.

    Bvlgari Hotel Roma is the second Bulgari hotel in Italy, joining Bvlgari Hotel Milano.

    Opening date: June 9, 2023

    View Bvlgari Hotel Roma

    Corinthia Hotel Rome

    Photo courtesy Corinthia Rome

    Location: Piazza del Parlamento, off of Via del Corso

    The Corinthia Rome will occupy the former Banca d’Italia building on Piazza del Parlamento. This will be the first hotel in Italy for the luxury Maltese brand.

    Opening date: Late 2023

    View Corinthia Rome

    Some Recent Openings & Reopenings

    Here are some other hotels in Rome that have recently introduced a refresh or a change in brand.

    W Hotel

    Photo courtesy W Hotel Rome

    Location: Off Via Veneto

    W hotels are known as see-and-be-seen hotels, and the new W Hotel Rome follows that trend with Instagrammable public spaces like its open-air courtyard, rooftop bar, and quirky Sicilian-flavored restaurant and pastry bar Giano. The newest of more than 5-dozen Marriott properties in Italy, the W Hotel Rome has 162 rooms and suites. Another Marriott 5-star, the Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel, opened near the Pantheon in 2018.

    Book W Hotel Rome

    Anantara Palazzo Naiadi

    Photo courtesy Anantara Palazzo Naiadi

    Location: Piazza Repubblica

    Occupying an enviable position inside one of the twin buildings of the 19th century Palazzo Esedra, the 5-star Anantara Palazzo Naiadi takes over the hotel formerly known as the Boscolo Exedra Roma. In addition to its 221 guest rooms, 17 suites, and rooftop pool, the property has had an intriguing (and sometimes tragic) relationship with celebrity, including serving as a backdrop for some scenes in the House of Gucci film. The Anantara Palazzo Naiadi is the first hotel in Italy by the Thai hospitality brand, which is well known for its luxury hotels and spas in Asia.

    Book Anantara Palazzo Naiadi

    The Tribune Hotel, a JdV by Hyatt Hotel

    Photo courtesy The Tribune

    Location: Near Via Veneto/Villa Borghese

    The 52-room Tribune joins nine other chic Hyatt-affiliated hotels in the heart of Rome, including Palazzo Manfredi, Palm Suite, and Hotel Maalot (see below). Tucked away near the Via Veneto, the 4-star Tribune Hotel is a great place to stay to enjoy the nature and jogging trails of Villa Borghese and to be within walking distance of the fabulous Borghese Gallery. Hotel guests and visitors can also take advantage of the hotel’s rooftop bar Terrazza Borghese, which overlooks the sprawling park.

    Book The Tribune Hotel

    Hotel Maalot

    Photo courtesy Hotel Maalot

    Location: Near Trevi Fountain

    This 5-star luxury hotel is housed in the former home of opera composer Gaetano Donizetti!

    Book Hotel Maalot

    Find More Hotels in Rome

    New places to stay are opening all the time in Rome. Browse the map below for accommodation inspiration and rates. See my travel booking resources for more ideas.