Three more Italian sites have been added to the UNESCO Heritage List: Padua’s 14th-century frescoes; Bologna’s distinctive porticoes; and the Tuscan spa town of Montecatini Terme.
Padova Urbs Picta
Eight sites containing 14th-century fresco cycles make up Padua’s newest UNESCO listing. Known as Padova Urbs Picta (Padua Painted City), the truly stunning collection of frescoes recognize the artistic excellence that bloomed in the city during the time of master painter Giotto.
The frescoes of Padova Urbs Picta are located in the following Padua landmarks:
Scrovegni Chapel (Cappella degli Scrovegni)
Palazzo della Ragione
Oratorio San Michele
Chiesa dei SS. Filippo e Giacomo agli Eremitani
Oratorio San Giorgio
Basilica of St. Anthony
Cappella della Reggia Carrarese
Battistero della Cattedrale
Video about the Scrovegni Chapel, a major landmark on the Padova Urbs Picta UNESCO route
Visitors of Padua can tour the sites of the Padova Urbs Picta on a single ticket known as the Padova Urbs Picta Card, which has a corresponding smartphone app.
The covered arcades—porticoes—that make Bologna such an inviting and walkable city were also added to UNESCO. Bologna’s portici cover 62 kilometers of the city and include the longest arcade in the world—Portico San Luca—a 40-kilometer portico that connects the city with the Marian sanctuary on the Colle della Guardia. Built over centuries, Bologna’s porticoes represent “a sustainable urban lifestyle, in which religious and civil spaces and the homes of all social classes are perfectly integrated.”
Montecatini Terme was also inscribed on Italy’s UNESCO World Heritage Site list. The spa town in southern Tuscany is part of a multi-country UNESCO site known as the Great Spa Towns of Europe.
“All of these towns,” per OnuItalia, “developed around natural mineral water springs. They bear witness to the international European spa culture that developed from the early 18th century to the 1930s, leading to the emergence of grand international resorts that impacted urban typology around ensembles of spa buildings such as the Kurhaus and Kursaal (buildings and rooms dedicated to therapy), pump rooms, drinking halls, colonnades and galleries designed to harness the natural mineral water resources and to allow their practical use for bathing and drinking.”
UNESCO Sites in Italy 2021
In addition to the three new inscriptions to Italy’s UNESCO Heritage Site list, two other sites were granted boundary extensions during the 2021 session.
The historic center of Florence, which has been a World Heritage Site since 1982, saw an extension of its boundaries to include the San Miniato al Monte church complex, Piazzale di Michelangelo, and le Rampe del Poggi.
Meanwhile, the city of Venice narrowly managed to avoid getting placed on UNESCO endangered list during the 2021 meeting. Italy’s decree banning cruise ships from sailing into the Venetian lagoon, effective from August 1, helped save the canal city from a demotion in UNESCO status. It could have meant a loss of millions of euros in preservation funding. According to Skift, UNESCO “does not provide funding, but the endangered status itself can help be an impetus to raise private or public funds.”
Italy remains the world leader in the number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The country now boasts 58 cultural and natural UNESCO sites, as well as 14 traditions that are recognized by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage.
The 2020 UNESCO Committee meeting was canceled because of the pandemic, leading to a longer list of sites up for consideration in 2021. The next UNESCO meeting is set to take place in summer 2022. Other Italian sites vying for UNESCO status in the next year include Cività di Bagnoregio in Lazio, the Via Francigena, and the prehistoric artistic and architectural sites of Sardinia, among many others.
Italy has long been at the forefront of writing and the written word. From scrolls to printing presses and filaments to fonts, writing history has been made and has flourished in Italy over millennia.
As a writer and lover of all things Italy, I eat up these little tidbits of written history—when I can find them. Museums in Italy are often so packed (and blessed!) with art and historical fragments that artifacts associated with the written word are shoved off to side galleries and tucked into hidden libraries, left to gather dust in the shadows.
Here are just a few of the items and exhibits that have delighted the writer in me.
Ancient Writing and Texts
So many words that were written during ancient times are available to even the casual visitor to Rome. Marble blocks are chiseled with Latin phrases and abbreviations on ruins the Roman Forum and on artifacts housed in museums across the country.
But how did these ancient people write and with what?
The Museum of Written Communication in the Roman World, Rome
The Museum of Written Communication in the Roman World | Photo courtesy MNR
The epigraphic collection contains around 900 items, including texts “written by people belonging to all social strata, from emperor to slave, and bear witness to the daily lives of men and women living many centuries ago.” You’ll find funerary monuments, seals, and altars with inscriptions dating from the 7th to the 2nd centuries BC.
Ancient Pyrgi Tablets at the National Etruscan Museum | Sailko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Across town, the National Etruscan Museum houses yet another example of ancient writing. Here you will find the 6th-century BC Pyrgi Tablets. These three, perfectly preserved, gold tablets are engraved in Etruscan and Phoenician.
Iguvine Tablets, Gubbio
Beyond Rome, there are several other places to find artifacts engraved with ancient languages. One such town is the Umbrian hill town of Gubbio, which prides itself on its Iguvine Tables. These engraved bronzes, dating from the 3rd- to the 1st-century BC, are inscribed in the ancient Umbrii language and housed in Gubbio’s Palazzo dei Consoli. They are also known as the Eugubine or Eugubium Tablets (Tavole Eugubine, in Italian).
First Examples of the Italian Language
Florence announced in 2020 that the city would be the future home of the National Museum of the Italian Language. The announcement was made to coincide with the commemorations marking the 700th anniversary year of the death of Dante.
National Museum of the Italian Language, Florence
When it opens, the National Museum of the Italian Language will have on display early editions of Dante’s Divina Commedia as well as the Placito di Capua, a document dating from 960 that is the first known document written in the vulgate. Until then, you can find a copy of the Placito di Capua on exhibit in the Museum of the Abbey of Montecassino.
Though Dante is considered the Father of the Italian language, the Placito di Capua attests to the fact that the vernacular was in wide use long before the poet took quill to paper in the 13th century.
Basilica di San Clemente, Rome
Another, more amusing example of the first use of vernacular is in the Basilica of San Clemente in Rome.
“Sons of bitches, pull!” – Inscription of San Clemente and Sisinnio | Source
Part of a fresco, the inscription details an interaction between San Clemente and the nobleman Sisinnio and his servants. Sissinio had ordered that Saint Clement be dragged to prison because Sissinio was angry that his wife, who had recently converted to Christianity, had been influenced by Clemente. But Clemente has miraculously freed himself and the servants find themselves dragging a heavy column instead.
Saint Clement’s words are expressed in Latin (the proper language) while Sisinnio and his men speak in the vulgate.
SISINIUM: “Fili de le pute, traite!”
GOSMARIUS: “Albertel, trai!”
ALBERTELLUS: “Falite dereto co lo palo, Carvoncelle!”
SANCTUS CLEMENS: “Duritiam cordis vestris, saxa traere meruistis.”
The translation reads:
SISINNIO: “Sons of bitches, pull!”
GOSMARIO: “Albertello, pull!”.
ALBERTELLO: “Get behind him with the pole, Carvoncelle!”.
SAN CLEMENTE: “Because of the hardness of your heart, you deserve to drag stones.”
This example of vulgar Italian is actually closer to today’s Romanesco dialect of Rome—especially the “file de le pute” part.
First Fonts
With the advent of Johannes Gutenberg’s printing press in 1440, there was a need to standardize type. Renaissance Italy—home to multiple universities, the papacy, and aristocratic courts—was especially eager for the printed word and tools to speed up its production.
Early Printers and Typefaces in Venice and the Veneto
With matrices, moulds, and type, there was suddenly a new commodity on the market, and the center of trade and the heart of printing was Venice.
In Venice, more than 50 printers competed for the passing merchant’s attention, and clarity was a strong selling point. The da Spira brothers from Germany established their Venetian type in the city in the 1460s…it is easily readable to us today, the eye gliding rather than snagging along it, the first truly modern printed font.”
Example of Venetian type in a manuscript published by the da Spira brothers in Venice in 1470 | Source
Venice’s Marciana National Library, located on Piazzetta San Marco, contains a trove of printed treasures, including the first book ever printed in Venice by Giovanni da Spiro (née Johannes Von Speyer). It was Epistolae ad familiares by Cicero.
Garfield also discusses the Venice-based French typographer Nicolas Jenson, who is known for creating the first Roman-style font; Aldo Manuzio, innovator of moveable type that looked like handwritten script and of the “pocket book”; and Venetian goldsmith Francesco Griffo, who first introduced italic type.
About Griffo, Garfield writes:
Many of the types for [the ancient texts that illuminated the Italian high Renaissance] were in fact cut by the goldsmith Francesco Griffo. It was Griffo who created the ancestor of the classic Bembo font—which he devised to set a brief account of a trip to Mount Etna by a Venetian cardinal—and, around 1500, introduced italic type—not as a method of highlighting text but of setting entire books in a more condensed form.
Learn more about Nicolas Jenson from this Cooper Union lecture series | YouTube
Two more places to explore the history of the written word in the Veneto region are Verona and Treviso.
In Verona, the municipal libraries have thousands of rare manuscripts, including originals from da Spiro, Manuzio, and Jenson. Meanwhile, Treviso is home to the hip Tipoteca Printing and Type Design Museum, which has a collection of manuscripts, antique printing presses, and an extensive archive of metal and wooden type blocks.
Museo Bodoniano, Parma
Type casts from the Museo Bodoniano in Parma | Source
Fast forward a few centuries and move west about 162 miles (261km) and you will reach Parma, another important center for fonts and the printed word.
Parma’s Museo Bodoniano, Italy’s oldest printing museum, is dedicated to Giambattista Bodoni, creator of the “Bodoni” font.
Giambattista Bodoni of Parma and the Parisian Firmin Didot are the designers credited with inventing the “Modern” class of typefaces in the 18th century. These faces appeared in the 1790s, when improved printing techniques and paper quality enabled the punchcutter to cut far thinner strokes without a risk of cracking or disappearing on the page.
The Bodonian Museum is laid out in three sections, which are dedicated to print before and after Bodoni, the Italian craft of bookbinding, and the personal and professional history of Giambattista Bodoni. In the collection are rare documents, letters, and manuscripts printed in Bodoni; printing tools, including seals, stamps, punches, and letter casts; and a reproduction of Bodoni’s printing press. It also has a library devoted to books about printing, type-setting, and the history of fonts.
One of the most popular reality shows in Italy right now is called 4 Hotel. While I’m not a huge fan of reality competition shows, I like 4 Hotel because it highlights the best places to visit in Italy.
4 Hotel: The Concept
The gardens at B&B AdAstra Florence, a hotel contestant in Season 1 of “4 Hotel”
In its fourth season, 4 Hotel (the plural doesn’t get an ‘s’ in Italian) is a great concept that was spun-off from another popular show called 4 Ristorianti. In each episode, host Bruno Barbieri visits four hotels of a certain type in a popular tourist area and stays there for one night and one day. He tests out the beds and bathrooms, surveys the public areas, tries the food, and takes advantage of the services, which range from spa sessions to local tours.
Joining him are the hoteliers from each of the four properties. All four stay in each others’ hotels and rate them according to four main criteria—location, services, room, and price. In season 4, they also rate each other on breakfast. The winner of each episode gets € 5,000 to be used to invest in and improve their business.
Like all reality shows, this one is not shy to play up some drama or to point out potentially embarrassing mistakes. For example, in one episode Barbieri finds a long hair in his bedding (the hotel changes the bedding immediately). The hotelier participants are also quick to criticize their competitors’ properties. But in general, the shows offer an interesting marketing opportunity for the hotels, no matter what flaws are exposed.
4 Hotel As Travel Show
The deck overlooking the Sorrento Peninsula at the Ravello Art Hotel Marmorata, a participant in Season 3 of “4 Hotel”
The thing I really enjoy about 4 Hotel is how it highlights the wide variety of travel options that Italy offers. The episodes always open with a quick overview of each destination, with beautiful shots of landscapes, architecture, art, and food.
The first season of 4 Hotel featured boutique hotels in Florence, historic houses in Naples, and other properties and areas across six episodes.
Season 2 saw Barbieri stay in Trulli and masseria properties in Puglia and the best hotels in Valtellina, the mountainous area above Lake Como.
In season 3, Barbieri and his hotelier contestants stayed in the best hotels in the Sorrento Peninsula and at historic wine estates in Chianti.
Season 4, which began in May 2021, has so far focused on the best hotels in Venice, the best historic homes in the region of Tuscany, and ski lodges in Trentino Alto Adige. He will also visit hotels in Milan, Lecce, the Maremma subregion of Tuscany, Abruzzo, and Basilicata through season 4.
The main reason that 4 Hotel has been a hit in Italy is because of its host. Bruno Barbieri is a chef and TV host, best known as one of the judges on 10 seasons of MasterChef Italia. If you’re a fan of early seasons of US MasterChef, you can kind of compare him to Graham Elliott—the fun guy with the quirky glasses that knows about food but is generally gentle and kind to the contestants.
Barbieri also knows about hotels, having traveled around the world and Italy as a chef. He received two of his seven Michelin stars at Arquade, his restaurant inside the 5-star luxury hotel Relais Chateaux Villa del Quar near Verona. His latest restaurant venture is Fourghetti (reviews) in Bologna.
How to Watch 4 Hotel
If you don’t speak Italian, you may have trouble watching 4 Hotel. The show is currently only in Italian, though some episodes available on YouTube allow you to turn on auto-translations.
Sky TV produces 4 Hotel and has various clips and details on its website. If you have Sky (or can get access to Sky through a friend 🙂 ), here’s how to watch the show using a VPN.
Here’s one of the latest episodes of 4 Hotel, set in Venice:
I don’t know if any other countries have yet to copy the the 4 Hotel concept. But I really think it could do well in so many places.
At the very least, I wish Sky would release these shows in syndication with English subtitles, perhaps in conjunction with the Italian Tourism Board and Netflix or the Travel Channel. I imagine that a lot of would-be travelers to Italy would love to watch it.
Castle living seems pretty glamorous until you realize all the things that can go wrong. The upkeep is tremendous. The WiFi doesn’t travel reliably through those thick stone walls. Misplaced something? You may never find it again.
The highs and lows of medieval castle living is the premise behind The Castle Diary, a breakthrough TikTok account run by Ludovica Sannazzaro. Ludovica lives with her family in their ancestral 12th-century castle in Giarole, Piemonte, where she has spent the months of quarantine chronicling the perceptions and realities of living in a house with a turret, a ballroom, and a dungeon.
CBS Sunday Morning recently profiled Ludovica and her father Count Giuseppe Sannazzaro, who reveals another difficult side to castle living—trying to make it work as a bed and breakfast. The pandemic has been tough for everyone in the hospitality business. So, his daughter’s TikTok account has been a fun distraction (and marketing vehicle) during these unusual times.
Now that Italy has reopened to tourism, Castello Sannazzaro has resumed guided visits of the castle and grounds. However, it has yet to announce when it will reopen as a bed and breakfast (see reviews). Follow Castello Sannazzaro on Facebook or Twitter for updates.
The Sannazzaro’s castle in Giarole is a member of the Piemontese Castle Association, where you can find more information about castles that are open for visits, special events, or accommodations.